Sewing with knit fabrics can seem daunting, but with the right techniques, it opens up a world of comfortable and stylish garment possibilities. Unlike woven fabrics, knits possess inherent stretch, requiring specialized stitches and handling to prevent puckering and seam breakage. This guide will demystify the process, providing step-by-step instructions and essential tips for successful knit fabric sewing.
Whether you’re crafting a cozy t-shirt, a form-fitting dress, or comfortable leggings, mastering knit fabric sewing ensures professional-looking results. We’ll cover everything from selecting the appropriate needles and threads to choosing the best stitches and stabilizing seams. By understanding the unique characteristics of knit fabrics, you can confidently create garments that are both beautiful and comfortable.
What Is Knitted Fabric
Knitted fabric is a textile created by interlacing yarns into a series of interconnected loops. This looping process distinguishes it from woven fabric, which is made by interlacing yarns at right angles. The interconnected loops in knit fabrics provide inherent stretch and flexibility, allowing them to conform to various shapes and movements. This makes knit fabrics exceptionally comfortable and adaptable for a wide range of applications, from apparel to home textiles.
There are two primary categories of knit fabrics: weft knits and warp knits. Weft knits are formed by loops running horizontally, while warp knits are created by loops running vertically. This difference in construction affects the fabric’s properties, such as its stretch direction, drape, and resistance to runs. Knit fabrics are widely used in apparel, from casual wear like t-shirts and sweaters to form-fitting garments like leggings and sportswear, due to their inherent comfort and adaptability.
How to Sew Knit Fabric
Sewing knit fabrics can seem daunting, but with the right techniques, you can create beautiful, comfortable garments. Understanding the unique characteristics of knit fabrics and how to handle them ensures a smooth sewing process and a professional finish. Let’s break down the steps to successfully sew knit fabrics.
Step 1: Prepare Your Tools and Materials
You’ll want to start by gathering the correct tools and materials. Choosing the right needle is crucial; ballpoint or stretch needles prevent damage to the fabric’s loops, unlike universal needles that can tear them. For thread, polyester offers the necessary give and durability, while wooly nylon is excellent for sergers and coverstitch machines. Don’t forget a walking foot to prevent uneven feeding and stretching. Always test your needle and thread on a scrap of fabric to ensure compatibility.
Additionally, you should stabilize your seams with lightweight fusible interfacing or stay tape, especially along areas prone to stretching, like shoulder seams and necklines. A serger or coverstitch machine will give you a professional finish, simultaneously sewing, trimming, and finishing the edges. If you don’t have these machines, a zigzag stitch on your regular sewing machine provides some flexibility and prevents seams from breaking. Remember, the right tools make a significant difference in the final outcome.
Step 2: Prepare and Cut Your Fabric
Before cutting, pre-wash your knit fabric to prevent shrinkage later on. Lay the fabric flat on a clean, smooth surface to ensure accurate cutting. Use pattern weights or pins to secure the pattern pieces, preventing them from shifting. Rotary cutters and sharp fabric scissors will give you precise cuts, minimizing jagged edges that can distort the fabric. Pay close attention to the fabric grain and pattern markings, transferring them accurately.
When you cut, follow the grain of the fabric, especially for knits with a distinct direction of stretch. Mark your seam lines and hem allowances with fabric markers or tailor’s chalk. Handle the fabric carefully to avoid stretching or distorting it, as knits can stretch easily. Using a rotary cutter and mat helps maintain accuracy, and cutting on a flat surface ensures evenness. Stabilizing the edges with a zigzag stitch or serger before sewing can prevent curling and fraying.
Step 3: Choose the Right Stitch and Adjust Your Machine
Selecting the appropriate stitch is vital for sewing knit fabrics. A zigzag stitch is versatile, offering flexibility and strength. If your machine has a stretch stitch, use it for high-stretch knits. An overlock stitch (serger) is the professional standard, simultaneously sewing, trimming, and finishing the edges. Avoid straight stitches, as they lack elasticity and can cause seams to break. Adjust your machine settings to accommodate the fabric’s stretch; reduce the presser foot pressure to prevent stretching during sewing.
Use a shorter stitch length for stronger seams and test your chosen stitch on a scrap of fabric. A walking foot ensures even feeding, preventing uneven seams. Stabilize seams with lightweight fusible interfacing or stay tape to prevent stretching, especially along shoulder seams and necklines. For hems, a twin needle or coverstitch machine provides a clean finish. Remember, testing and adjusting your machine settings are key to achieving perfect seams.
Step 4: Sew Your Seams Carefully
When sewing knit fabric, you must avoid stretching the fabric, which can lead to puckering and distortion. Use a walking foot to ensure even feeding and prevent uneven seams. Sew seams with the appropriate stitches, and stabilize them with lightweight fusible interfacing or stay tape, especially along areas prone to stretching. Ensure your seams are sewn evenly and consistently.
Step 5: Finish Your Edges
Finishing the edges of knit fabrics prevents fraying and provides a clean, professional look. An overlock stitch (serger) is ideal, simultaneously sewing, trimming, and finishing the edges. If you don’t have a serger, a zigzag stitch or a three-thread overedge stitch will work. Ensure your edges are neatly finished to prevent unraveling and maintain the garment’s integrity. Press seams with a warm iron to flatten and smooth them, enhancing the overall appearance and durability.
Step 6: Hem Your Garment
For hemming, consider using a coverstitch or twin needle for a clean, professional finish. Stabilize the hem with lightweight fusible interfacing or stay tape to prevent stretching. Sew the hem carefully, ensuring the stitching is even and consistent. Trim any excess threads and inspect the hem for unevenness or puckering. Press the hem with a warm iron to flatten and smooth it. Finishing your hem properly will give your garment a polished look.
Hemming Technique for Knitted Fabric Regular Sewing Machine
Hemming knitted fabric with a regular sewing machine requires techniques that accommodate its stretch while preventing puckering and distortion. Understanding these methods ensures a clean, professional finish. Here’s a breakdown of hemming techniques for knit fabrics using a regular sewing machine.
Preparing Your Fabric and Hem
You’ll want to start by pre-washing your knit fabric to prevent shrinkage after you’ve hemmed it. Lay your fabric flat and mark your desired hem length with pins or fabric markers, making sure it’s even all the way around.
Press your hem allowance with a warm iron to create a clean fold, which will act as your guide. Stabilizing the hem edge with lightweight fusible interfacing or stay tape is crucial; this stops stretching and keeps the garment’s shape. Apply the stabilizer to the wrong side of the fabric, covering the hem allowance, to give yourself a firm base for sewing.
Selecting Your Needle and Thread
Choose the right needle and thread for a smooth hem. Use a ballpoint or stretch needle; their rounded tip prevents damage to the fabric’s loops, unlike universal needles that can tear them. Opt for a polyester thread, which has a little give and is durable, allowing the seams to stretch with the fabric. Avoid cotton thread, as it lacks elasticity and can break under tension. Test your chosen needle and thread on a scrap of your knit fabric to make sure they’re compatible and prevent any issues during hemming.
Choosing Your Stitch
A zigzag stitch is your most versatile option for hemming knit fabrics with your regular sewing machine. Adjust the stitch width and length based on your fabric’s stretch and thickness. A narrow zigzag stitch provides enough give to prevent seams from breaking while still looking clean. If your machine has a stretch stitch, you can use that too.
Avoid a straight stitch, as it lacks elasticity and can cause seams to break under tension. A twin needle can mimic the look of a coverstitch, creating two parallel rows of straight stitches on the right side and a zigzag stitch on the wrong side.
Sewing Your Hem and Finishing
When sewing your hem, carefully guide your fabric under the presser foot, avoiding any stretching that could lead to puckering. Keep your seam allowance even and ensure consistent stitching along the folded edge. If you’re using a twin needle, sew along the folded edge, keeping the two rows parallel.
For a zigzag stitch, sew along the folded edge, adjusting the stitch width and length as needed. After sewing, trim any excess threads and inspect your hem for unevenness or puckering. Press your hem with a warm iron to flatten and smooth it, improving the overall look. If you haven’t already, finish the raw edge of your hem with a zigzag stitch or a three-thread overedge stitch to prevent fraying and give yourself a clean edge.
Sewing Patterns for Knit Fabrics
Selecting the right sewing patterns for knit fabrics is crucial for achieving a well-fitting and comfortable garment. Understanding the characteristics of different knit types and how they drape and stretch will guide you in choosing suitable patterns. Here are some of sewing pattern types that work best with knit fabrics.
Patterns Designed Specifically for Knit Fabrics
These patterns are explicitly drafted to accommodate the stretch and drape of knit fabrics. They often include negative ease, meaning the garment’s measurements are smaller than your body measurements, allowing the fabric to stretch and fit snugly.
Look for patterns labeled “for knits only” or those that specify the required stretch percentage. These patterns typically provide clear instructions on fabric selection and stitch types, ensuring a professional finish. Garments like fitted tops, leggings, and dresses with gathered or draped elements are often designed for knit fabrics.
Patterns with Minimal Shaping
Patterns that feature simple shapes and minimal shaping work well with knit fabrics. These designs rely on the fabric’s natural drape and stretch to create a flattering fit without intricate seams or darts. Garments like basic t-shirts, simple skirts, and loose-fitting tops fall into this category. The simplicity of these patterns allows you to focus on the fabric’s qualities, showcasing its drape and comfort.
Patterns with Negative Ease
Negative ease patterns are designed to be smaller than your body measurements, relying on the knit fabric’s stretch to achieve a close fit. These patterns are ideal for form-fitting garments like leggings, bodycon dresses, and fitted tops. Ensure the pattern specifies the required stretch percentage, as different knits have varying degrees of elasticity. Using a pattern with the correct negative ease will ensure a snug yet comfortable fit.
Patterns with Gathered or Draped Elements
Knit fabrics excel at creating soft gathers and drapes, making them perfect for patterns that feature these design elements. Garments like wrap dresses, cowl neck tops, and skirts with gathered waistbands showcase the fabric’s fluid drape. These patterns often use the fabric’s stretch to create flattering shapes and comfortable fits. The soft drape of knit fabrics enhances the beauty of gathered and draped designs.
Patterns with Simple Seams and Hems
Patterns with simple seams and hems are ideal for knit fabrics, as they minimize the need for intricate sewing techniques. Garments like basic tunics, simple cardigans, and easy-to-sew dresses fall into this category. These patterns often use the fabric’s stretch to create a comfortable fit without complex shaping. Simple seams and hems reduce the risk of puckering or distortion, ensuring a clean and professional finish.
Tips for Sewing With Knit Fabric
Sewing with knit fabric can be a rewarding experience if you approach it with the right techniques and mindset. Here are some essential tips to help you achieve professional-looking results and avoid common pitfalls.
Choose the Right Needle and Thread
Selecting the appropriate needle and thread is crucial for successful knit fabric sewing. Opt for ballpoint or stretch needles, as their rounded tip prevents damage to the fabric’s loops. Pair these with polyester thread, which has a slight give, or wooly nylon thread for serger or coverstitch machines, as they offer excellent elasticity and a soft finish. Avoid using universal needles, as they can tear the fabric, and cotton thread, which lacks the necessary stretch and can break under tension.
Adjust Your Machine Settings
Proper machine settings are vital for sewing knit fabrics. Reduce the presser foot pressure to prevent stretching during sewing, and use a shorter stitch length for stronger seams. Test your chosen stitch on a scrap of fabric to ensure compatibility and prevent any unforeseen issues. A walking foot can help prevent uneven feeding and stretching, especially when sewing multiple layers. Stabilizing seams with lightweight fusible interfacing or stay tape can also prevent distortion, particularly along shoulder seams and necklines.
Use the Correct Stitches
Choosing the right stitch is essential for accommodating the stretch of knit fabrics. A zigzag stitch is a versatile option, offering flexibility and strength. A stretch stitch, if available on your machine, is ideal for high-stretch knits. An overlock stitch (serger) is the professional standard, simultaneously sewing, trimming, and finishing the edges. Avoid using a straight stitch, as it lacks elasticity and can cause seams to break under tension.
Prevent Stretching and Puckering
Knit fabrics are prone to stretching, so it’s crucial to handle them gently. Avoid pulling or tugging on the fabric while sewing. Use pattern weights or pins to secure the fabric during cutting and sewing. Stabilize seams with lightweight fusible interfacing or stay tape to prevent stretching, especially along shoulder seams and necklines. When sewing, maintain an even seam allowance and avoid stretching the fabric under the presser foot. A walking foot can also help prevent uneven feeding and stretching.
Finish Edges Properly
Finishing the edges of knit fabrics is essential to prevent fraying and ensure a clean, professional look. An overlock stitch (serger) is the ideal method, simultaneously sewing, trimming, and finishing the edges. If a serger is unavailable, a zigzag stitch or a three-thread overedge stitch can be used. Press seams with a warm iron to flatten and smooth them, enhancing the overall appearance and durability of the garment.
Hem with Care
Hemming knit fabrics requires techniques that accommodate their stretch and prevent puckering. For a clean, professional finish, consider using a coverstitch or twin needle. Stabilize the hem with lightweight fusible interfacing or stay tape to prevent stretching. Sew the hem carefully, ensuring the stitching is even and consistent. Trim any excess threads and inspect the hem for unevenness or puckering. Press the hem with a warm iron to flatten and smooth it, giving your garment a polished look.
What Size Needle for Sewing Knit Fabric
Choosing the correct needle size for sewing knit fabric is crucial to prevent damage and ensure smooth, professional-looking seams. Here are some needle sizes and their applications for knit fabrics:
Lightweight Knits (Fine Knits, Jersey, Voile)
For lightweight knit fabrics, such as fine jersey, voile, or thin cotton knits, use a smaller needle size. Needles in the size range of 60/8 to 70/10 are ideal. These finer needles prevent large holes and snags in the delicate fabric. Using a smaller needle ensures a clean, smooth stitch without damaging the thin fibers.
Medium-Weight Knits (Interlock, Rib Knit, Most Cotton Knits)
Medium-weight knits, including interlock, rib knit, and most standard cotton knits, require a medium-sized needle. Needles in the size range of 75/11 to 80/12 are suitable for these fabrics. These needles are strong enough to handle the fabric’s thickness without creating large holes or skipped stitches. They provide a balanced stitch quality and prevent fabric damage.
Heavyweight Knits (Fleece, Sweater Knits, Ponte di Roma)
Heavyweight knits, such as fleece, sweater knits, and ponte di Roma, require a larger needle size. Needles in the size range of 90/14 to 100/16 are recommended. These thicker needles can penetrate the dense fabric without breaking or skipping stitches. Using a larger needle ensures that the seams are strong and durable, suitable for the fabric’s weight.
Spandex or Lycra Blends (High-Stretch Knits)
For high-stretch knits, like spandex or Lycra blends, use a stretch needle. These needles are specifically designed to prevent skipped stitches and damage to the elastic fibers. The size should still correspond to the fabric’s weight, but the needle type is crucial. For lightweight spandex blends, use 75/11 stretch needles, and for heavier blends, use 90/14 stretch needles.
General Tips
- Replace Needles Regularly: Needles become dull over time, which can cause skipped stitches and fabric damage. Replace your needle regularly, especially when working with knit fabrics, to ensure smooth and clean seams.
- Ballpoint or Stretch Needles: Always use ballpoint or stretch needles when sewing knit fabrics. Their rounded tip prevents damage to the fabric’s loops, unlike universal needles that can tear them.
- Test on Scrap Fabric: Before sewing your garment, test your chosen needle size and stitch on a scrap of the knit fabric. This allows you to check for skipped stitches, puckering, or fabric damage and adjust your machine settings as needed.
- Match Needle Size to Fabric Weight: Ensure the needle size corresponds to the fabric’s weight. Using a needle that is too small for a heavy fabric can lead to broken needles and skipped stitches, while a needle that is too large for a lightweight fabric can create large holes and snags.
How to Keep Knit Fabric From Stretching While Sewing
Preventing knit fabric from stretching while sewing is crucial for achieving clean, professional-looking seams and hems. Here are some essential tips to help you maintain the fabric’s integrity and avoid distortion during the sewing process.
Use a Walking Foot
A walking foot is your best friend when sewing knit fabrics. It has feed dogs that work in conjunction with your machine’s feed dogs, ensuring both layers of fabric feed evenly. This prevents the top layer from stretching as it’s fed through the machine, which is a common issue with knit fabrics. By maintaining even feeding, you’ll avoid uneven seams and stretching.
Adjust Presser Foot Pressure
Reducing the presser foot pressure can significantly minimize stretching. When the pressure is too high, the presser foot can pull and stretch the fabric as it moves through the machine. Adjust your machine settings to a lower pressure setting to allow the fabric to feed more smoothly without being pulled. Test this setting on a scrap of fabric to find the optimal pressure.
Stabilize Seams and Hems
Stabilizing seams and hems with lightweight fusible interfacing or stay tape is essential for preventing stretching. Apply the stabilizer to the wrong side of the fabric along seam lines, particularly in areas prone to stretching like shoulder seams and necklines. For hems, apply the stabilizer along the hem edge before folding and sewing. This provides a firm base and prevents the fabric from stretching out during stitching.
Use the Correct Stitch
Choosing the right stitch is crucial for accommodating the stretch of knit fabrics. A zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch (if your machine has one) will allow the seam to move with the fabric, preventing breakage. Avoid using a straight stitch, as it lacks elasticity and can cause seams to break or pucker. An overlock stitch (serger) is ideal for finishing edges and creating strong, flexible seams.
Handle the Fabric Gently
Knit fabrics are prone to stretching, so it’s essential to handle them gently throughout the sewing process. Avoid pulling or tugging on the fabric while cutting, pinning, and sewing. Use pattern weights or pins to secure the fabric during cutting and sewing. When sewing, guide the fabric gently under the presser foot without pulling it.
Test on a Scrap of Fabric
Before sewing your garment, always test your chosen stitch, needle, and thread on a scrap of your knit fabric. This allows you to check for any stretching or puckering and adjust your machine settings as needed. Testing helps you avoid potential issues and ensures your final garment has clean, professional-looking seams.
Conclusion
Mastering the art of sewing knit fabrics opens up a world of comfortable and stylish garment possibilities. By understanding the unique properties of knit materials and employing the correct techniques, you can create professional-looking pieces that fit and drape beautifully. From selecting the right needle and thread to choosing appropriate stitches and stabilizing seams, each step contributes to a successful outcome.
The key to sewing knit fabrics lies in accommodating their inherent stretch while maintaining seam integrity. Using a serger or coverstitch machine can elevate your projects, providing durable and flexible finishes. However, even with a standard sewing machine, careful adjustments and the right tools can yield excellent results. Practice and patience are essential, as each knit fabric may require slightly different handling.
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